We borrowed a boogie board from the B and B and drove a few kilometers south to a more pristine curve of beach called Carillo. Red crabs skittered back into their holes as we passed in search of the perfect hang-out spot. Then we walked into waist-deep water and waited for good waves. They came in sets of three or four, and if I caught the break of the first one, I could sometimes ride them all the way into shore and well up the beach. I want to learn to surf sometime but today was not the day– I had an appointment with destiny: my first time riding a horse. We thought our guides were going to take us along the beach, but we only spent a little time on the sand before switchbacking up a rural hill with a flat top and great views of the water and the surrounding countryside. I puckered up biting a tiny green fruit (note to self: “acio” means bitter) that the guide gave me. He laughed at my expression and claimed it was great with tequila. At least, I think that’s what he said. We eached matched our horse– I was dressed head to toe in dark brown, and Dr. G was 100% khaki. His prone-to-stopping horse threw a shoe on a climb up the hill. On the way back, the animals got more peppy. Mine in particular would break into a canter whenever another horse threatened to take his lead. I would bounce precariously in the saddle and keep one hand on my head to secure my straw hat. Alas, it blew off and the guide scrambled after it for me.

For lunch we went in search of another first: ceviche, which is chopped raw fish soaked in something acidic like vinegar or lemon juice, which results in a sort of cold cooking. We were served cold glass bowls full at a little cevicheria near the water, and added fresh hot salsa from a tupperware, cutting the heat with bites of saltine crackers. The fish was cool, firm, and flavorful and the fresh onions andd peppers added a nice zing. Another successful food experiment! After a nap, we headed back to Carillo for a long walk hunting for shells and spying on a blue kingfisher in a tree before catching some more waves. It was raining again, so we would lift our faces out of the saltwater to get washed by rainwater. There was no lightning, but the wind whipped up some intimidating waves for us to try. For supper, we walked behind a bamboo storefront on the main strip in Samara to find a nice open-air patio restaurant, lit by candles. Our comida tipico had, in addition to the usual meat and cabbage, fried eggs, big blocks of cheese and potato-beet salad. To our regret we had no room for dessert.

Tags: